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Glossary of Common Skin Care IngredientsA | B | C
| D | E
| F | G
| H | I
| J | K
| L | M
| N | O
| P | Q
| R | S
| T | U
| V | W
| X | Y
| Z
Acid
,Capric
(Decanoic
acid): Found in goat fat
Acid, Caprylic (Octanoic acid): From Saw Palmetto (Seronoa Repens), used for centuries for the ability to keep mucous clear Acid, Citric (2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid): Found in lemons, orange and peach - alpha hydroxy acid - natural clarifying, hydration and exfoliation effect on skin Acid, Ellagic: Highest source in Pomegranate, grapes, nuts, strawberries, anti mutagenic effect on cells, natural source of 3 estrogens, testosterone, betasitosterol, Acid, Malic: Found in peach, plum, chery and apple - alpha hydroxy acid natural clarifying, hydration and exfoliation effect on skin Acid, Oxalic ( Ehanedioic acid): Inorganic acid form insoluble salt with calcium, found in rhubarb and spinach, cleans rust stains from fabric and porcelain Acid, Palmitic (Hexadecanoic acid): Palm oil Acid, Quinic (Shikimic acid): Found in plums and carrot leaves - key for biosynthesis of aromatic compounds, used as a starting point for pharmaceuticals Acid, Stearic (Octadecanoic acid): Found in tallow and beef fat Acid,Lactic (2-hydroxypropanoic acid): Natural alpha hydroxy acid stimulates collagen production and increases growth of basal cells, natural clarifying, hydration and exfoliation effect on skin Acid,Tartaric: Found in grapes, raisins, high in linoleic and oleic fatty acids - aids in healing chapped skin, has a natural lifting effect Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis): Healing, humectant Alpha Hydroxytetronic Acid: Excellent natural bleaching agent Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS): Can be retained in fat cells for years, known toxic agent -can cause dermatitis, mutagenic Apricot Kernel oil (Prunus Armenica): Rich in Vit C, antioxidants, promotes healthy, supple skin Avocado oil (Persea Gratissima): Omega 3 fatty acid, healer and hydrator Behentrimonium Methylsulfate: Natural emulsifier from canola and rapeseed oils. Also has a preservative effect - used in baby products for mildness Behyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol, thickens, is a solvent and emollient Benzaldehyde: Toxic compound. Often in synthetic Bitter almond oil Benzene: Often used as a solvent, known to be toxic to bone marrow and mutagenic (changes cell structure) Benzoyl-hydrogen urea: Organic peptides of urea Beta - Glucan: Yeast polysaccharides, antioxidants, usually from Oat flour, soothing proteins that heal environmentally damaged skin. Biosaccaride Gum: Moisturizer, bacteria and pathogens have a hard time attaching to sugars, hydrates longer than hyaluronic acid Bisobolol: From chamomile - has a healing, soothing cell strenthening effect Cajaput oil (Cajaputi Melaleuca Lencodendron): Used in Ayrevedic medicine for it's natural analgesic and healing effects,especially on joints and muscles Caprylic Acid: Active alkaloid of the herb Saw Palmetto (Serenoa Repens), known for it's ability to keep mucous free flowing, antiseptic quality used as an emollient Capric/triglycerides: Emollient, skin conditioner and protectant Capsicum (Cayenne Pepper): Used to stimulate circulation and tissue absorption of nutrients, has a pain relieving quality Carbomer: Known as a rheology modifier ( suspension agent or building agent) - non-comedogenic Carbopol: Known as a rheology modifier ( suspension agent or building agent) formed by a polymerization of benzene - non-comedogenic Cetearyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohol (non-drying), emollient, thickens and moisturizes, from palm oil Cetyl Alcohol: Non drying alcohol, is an emollient and stabilizer - plant source Cetyl Myristoleate: From fish oil Chamomile:
Botanical
with antioxidant, healing properties, often used to soothe the skin Nettle (Urtica Officinalis): Antiinflammatant, clarification, healing Octyl Palmitate: Synthetic oil (may clog pores) - it's cousins are: isopropylpalmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, laureth-4,decyloleate,isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, may clog pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant Olive oil (Olea Europaea): Omega~3 fatty acid, Vit A, E, beta carotene, natural source of squalene (natural sebum is 25%squalene) - heals and hydrates, improves skin elasticity, silky feel Onion (Allium): Onion contains Aliin - when you cut across the cell cytoplasm a an enzyme allinasse creates a reaction and changes to pyrivic acid and ammonia, you cry! Used in scar therapies Orange oil, sweet (Citrus Dulcis): Rich in Vit C, antioxidants, promotes healthy, supple skin Panax Ginseng: Herbal adaptogen known for it's abitlity to oxygenate and energize Parabens (butyl, ethyl, methyl and propyl): Petroleum based synthetic known toxic substances that have a weak estrogenic effect - common preservative ingredient Paraffins: Petroleum distillates - hydrocarbons - known toxic effect -Not Good! PEG (polyethanediyl glycol): Synthetic plant glycol - is a humectant, solvent Petrolatum: Synthetic petroleum based hydrocarbon. Extreme toxicity. Known mutagenic, irritant and allergen. Often favored by uninformed doctors as it does not penetrate and forms a barrier. Phenolic compounds: Organic compound in it's cemical structure has an unsaturated ring with an OH group on it - easily oxidized (damaged by free radicals) Phenoxyethanol: Preservative - most common- know toxic agent causes allergic reactions, harmful if swallowed or inhaled can cause eczema, reproductive defects Plum (Prunus Domestica): Rich in natural alpha hydroxy acids and flavonoids - strengthens cell walls and moisture retention, contains quinic acid - needed for biosynthesis of aromatic compounds Polyglyceryl-10-Pentastearate: Liquid crystal emulsifying system , protects cell from environment, blends water and oil Polyporus Umbellatus: Similar to Co Q10 - antioxidant and oxygenation Polyquarterium: Ammonia derived, toxic Pomegranate (Punica Granatum): Highest natural source of Ellagic Acid anti mutagenic effect on cells, natural source of 3 estrogens,testosterone,betsitosterol, moisture restoration PPG Myristyl Proprionate: Synthetic oil (may clog pores) - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, putty stearate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, highly penetrating oil, may clog pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant Propylene Glycol: Antifreeze - known carcinogenic and mutagenic agent - in our foods and skin care - not good also called rose ether, ethylene glycol,monophenyl ether Putty Stearate: Synthetic oil (may clog pores) - it's cousins are: isopropyl palmitate, isotherma, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate, laureth-4, decyloleate, isotearyl neopentonate, octyl stearate, iso-cetyl stearate, PPG myristyl proprionate, highly penetrating oil, clogs pores causes blackheads, respiratory irritant Queen of the meadow (Filipendula Ulmaria (L.) maxim.): Healing, relaxes skin, aids in stress releif Red Marine Algae: Contains APT compound from aysalt shores of Hawaii, stimulates collagen, firmness and elasticity - slightly clogging Rose Hip Seed Oil (Rosa Acicularis Lindl): Renews and fortifies skin moisture, bathes cell in Vit C, heals, helps cell wall accept moisture Rosemary (Rosemarinus Officinalis): Improves circulation, fresh revitalized look to skin Safflower oil (Carthamus Tinctorus): High in oleic acids gives supple texture to skin, hydration aids in skin's natural barrier function , penetrates skin - good oil Sand Root (Sophora Flavenscens): Good for itchy skin Sandalwood (Santalum Album): Healing, humectant Saponins: Surface active herbal glycosides when shaken with water produce a lasting froth and foam that emusifies oil and water - liquifies phlegm Seaweed, brown: Collagen amplifier SF : denotes Synthetic Form Shavegrass: Aids in new cell growth and cell healing Shea butter (Karite oil)(Butyrospermum Parkil): Natural sunscreen effect and excellent hydrator. From trees in central Africa Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): Can be retained in fat cells for years, known toxic agent - dermatitis, mutagenic Stearyl Alcohol: Non-drying alcohol, plant derived natural wax, (can be synthetic) Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Vit C ester - oil soluble form Toluene: Derived from petroleum- bad Urea : Natural compound found in skin - when stabilized is excellent hydrator Witch Hazel (Hamemelis Virginiana): Astringent Xanthan Gum: Plant derived thickener Yeast Polysaccarides: Betaglucan Antioxidants, usually from Oat flour, soothing proteins that heal environmentally damaged skin.
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